- Introduction to sea waves
- Wind wave generation mechanisms
- Overview of shallow waves and shallow transformations: Refraction due to current, diffraction, reflection
- Long waves
- Nonlinear waves: Higher order Stokes waves, finite height waves in shallow water, Boussinesq approximation
- Interaction of waves – currents
- Gentle slope equation
- Wave breaking, phenomena in the breaking zone
- Spectral description of waves, energy balance and physical mechanisms of changes
- Surge prediction, statistical characteristics and design parameters
The final grade consists of 80% of the final exam and 20% of the exercises.
(a) Geological history of coasts and coastal zone.
- Coastal classification and morphology.
- Erosion and deposition landforms and modes of formation.
- Sediments: classification, composition, textural maturity, orientation.
- Particle size analysis of sediments: methods, statistical particle size parameters and environmental interpretation .
- Processes – models of sedimentation.
- Factors affecting post-depositional sedimentation: eustatic movements of the sea, tectonics, mass movements, upwelling and escape of gases, tidal waves.
- The coasts of Greece.
(b) Climatic changes at global level, in the Mediterranean and in Greece.
- Sea level rise.
- Erosion of the coastal zone.
- Wave storms.
- Front-line and the beach: Legislation, demarcation, displacement.
- Impacts of climate change on coastal zone development, indicators of coastal vulnerability.
- Coastal zone protection and strategic retreat.
- Computational methods for estimating shoreline displacement.
Integrated Coastal Zone Management
- The coastal zone as an expression of natural and anthropogenic dynamic balances.
- Characteristics of coastal ecosystems.
- Environmental pressures on the coasts, considered in the perspective of possible climate change.
- Integrated management methodology.
- Consideration of urban planning issues in the coastal zone.
- Front-line and beach: legislation, jurisprudence, European policy, International Law.
- Characteristic case studies.
Mathematical Models in the Coastal Zone
- Introduction, basic concepts, discretization methods, overview of basic numerical methods for solving elliptic, parabolic and hyperbolic partial differential equations, stability and accuracy analysis, numerical diffusion, applications and exercises.
- Introduction to computational coastal circulation models: principles of solving, classification, tuning and model validation.
- Wind and tidal circulation simulation: model building, application.
- Simulation of pollutant dispersion in the coastal zone and application.
- Simulation of wave circulation: radiation stresses, secondary currents, application.
- Roughness and bottom shear stresses.
- Sediment transport and shoreline morphodynamics: erosion simulation, sediment transport models, application of sediment transport and bottom morphology, shoreline evolution and application.